photo Matt Smith
Many of the surfers are billibongs yearning for an affiliation of some sort with a bygone era. Hordes of kooks some that cannot even swim yet actually manuever a surfboard are found strewn throughout the line up often going over the falls in pairs.
When the swell is on, depending on season and direction the VBW (south) take of zone is super critical. The peak is compressed to a few yards that break in front of a barnacle encrusted T shaped rock breakwater. The wave can get hollow and the take off is often a double up ledge when sizable. The few real locales can surf well and are not very hospitable to the uninitiated, rightfully so as the invasion and take over of a one time inclusive and unknown surf spot is complete and now domain of the kook. Stay off the peak, surf the middle sand bar between the jetty and lifeguard HQ and you will be ok. Rip can get very strong, not advisable for the weak paddler. Best just to go to Santa Monica Beach at Ocean Park.
