Eat,sleep,talk,and live surfing! Fairly sums up the decade and a half after I reached the age of 9. Sloppy, blown out, and freezing cold conditions mattered little as the objective to become master of the elusive curl (well at least not fall off and go over the falls.) consumed my every waking moment. Surfing is.
Lopez, Horan, Riddle, O’Rouke, Freeth, Aikau, the surf stars and legends, I knew them all. Scouring the surf magazines pages, for details and clues to the secretes and mystical knowledge of the art of The way, surfing is.
Surf movies The event de rigueur of surfdom in the not so distant past also is. This celluloid link to the watery world of pristine oscillations, illuminating shores unknown, an unatainable catch of jewels, tantalizing, inspired generations of grems to seek out the holy grail, THE NORTH SHORE! Yes the surf flick, a cacophony of hoots and hollers! An eruption of shenanigans and not so innocent debauchery! Ode to the Santa Monica Civic, the Cove in Hermosa Beach, and many other cinema houses that hosted the hollowed evenings and festivities. to be continuied…
