surfing with the Sensei! (teacher)


Hello all, please excuse the lack of blog posting(s). I have been swamped as I decided to go back to UCLA! I promise to get busy with the postings as of right now! I flowed up to Malibu today for a bit of surfing. The waves were really tiny,however the surf is in the surfer if you can what I mean!A few weeks ago, I found a Gopro2 camera rummaging around in the seaweed in Venice so I will be posting H20 shoots now! Being a rookie with the H2O camera, the shots are not so great as the lens fogged a bit but I will improve as I become more experience with it. I noticed even the minimal weight of small camera threw my balance of a bit! Well as the world turns, I am still surfing with out a wetsuit! The H2O is about 68 degrees at the Bu and with the sun out, I surf for about 2-3 hours no problem, With school being in, not much of a swell at all, I know Bu and other spots will be empty and to catch Malibu empty is such a treat! The sun, surf, and sounds is just such a blessing! I took out a few students and we had 1st Pt to our heads for almost the entire day! As you can see and hear , surfing  can be such a commune with God and nature.  Sensei’s tip for today! Practice swimming, be an all around waterman. dont depend on your board to save you!

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