Surfing Malibu, Ca 1st 2nd and 3rd point.


jayatbu

Jay Adams on a Marcello Verchelli shape. photo Ruben Pina

SurfRider Beach, Malibu ,Ca aka 1st, 2nd and 3rd point this week has been very very good even dare I say it classic, man Classic! this am late morning (didn’t want to bail!) machine like swell, perfect size and a mild, friendly, competent crowd. and I got more than my issue on a nice moving waterlogged Anderson loaner from surf buddy Susanne. Lots of good friends out wave riding, chatted it up with da homie aka the four string miestro of bottom of the greatest metal band of all time. Who is that you ask? sheeshhh come on, the one and only Robert Trujilo, man.  All in all a great way to start the day. Kundalini wants his hand back by the way.

A unique aspect of the surfing world is the chance to surf and observe and even befriend the elite of the sport/art!  The past two days, Big Allan Sarlo, Joel Tudor, Jay Adams,  Vince Klyne, etc were all out at the Pt ripping.  Mark my words kookmeyer, you are not gonna show up at the gym or field and get to play a pick up game with Jordan or Tom Brady that is for sure!  Two exceptionally stylish Japanese surfers out longboarding  caught my critical eye as the female being very graceful danced across the wave face, cross stepping and nose riding better than most, including yurz truly. Me? oh man, I use every trick in the book to get waves out at the Pt, including blowing their minds as I holla coming down! in Japanese. They always pause and the quizzical look on their face betrays their amazement (as if to say did that White-American man just say what I though he said? )  as the White Shadow slides on through kiddie Bowl, quoting ancient Japanese proverbs such as my favorite, Ishi no ue ni mo san-nen (石の上にも三年. Which translates roughly in English “Be patient.” in a round about way.  I will leave you that proverb grasshopper, be patient surfing the Malibu Pt and watch as there is plenty to learn

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2 Responses to “Surfing Malibu, Ca 1st 2nd and 3rd point.”

  1. Todd, you are something else…GREAT!
    Karen B

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