Unchained or waiting on the swell. Malibu USA Aug 22, 2014


unnamed

images

So I got to McDonalds in BU @ 6am. Waiting around for Styls drinking coffee posting shiz that nobody cares to much about.Styles rings me and says, I’ll be right there. 4 min later he is in Mac Ds in his WETSUIT. “Dude, dude, lets go come on,” He says impatiently.Freak man I’m 52 now not 25 the surf will be there it’s 6am. But I get it this dude has been locked up for 30 years. I reckon I would be pining to get out there too. I just roll my eyes and say, “Ok I will meet you at 2nd point. I still have my County parking pass so meet me there.” Of course he never shows up and I ring him twice. Nothing. I look at it and it’s maybe 2ft. I take a nap waking to see Malibu Carl walking his dog. Styles is nowhere to be found. Swell is building a bit a looking clean and the crowd has thinned @ the 9:00am shift change.Surf fun but inconsistent 1st point. Lunch time. be up here all day. Hope to see you soon Styles!

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: